Few in the Jura are as talented as Emeric Foléat of the tiny Les Matheny domain. Having worked for eight years under the legendary Jacques Puffeney, who taught him the ultimate value in embracing risk and trusting the quality of his fruit to do its thing in the cellar without coercion, Emeric farms 3 ha without the use of synthetic chemicals and raises his wines in a small cinderblock shed devoid of modern gadgety. Emeric takes each harvest as it comes, vinifying and aging certain parcels separately if the notion strikes him. Minute additions of sulfur, and even then only sometimes, are the only adjustments he makes to his bold, assertive, deeply personal creations.